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Singapore Part 1

Writer Rick T.
Photographer Michael Culme-Seymour


Singapore is a tiny city-state located in Southeast Asia just off the coast of Malaysia. Nearly 5 million sophisticated, well-fed and educated residents living in a neatly organized 700 square kilometres. Long known for its clean and slightly sterile image, this British flavoured, yet completely Asian metropolis has been quite busy recently building up its young and hip “cred”.

Sitting at only 137 kms north of the equator ensures that the year round tropical weather here is hot and humid or hot, humid and wet. For the most part there’s no need for formal wear, for all its western business appearances, visitors do best to dress for comfort (cotton is best) and bring as little as possible. You can buy what you need as the shopping is phenomenal! The one exception are certain bars/lounges/restaurants where you may be barred entry or at the minimum frowned upon for wearing shorts and flip-flips.

Singapore is famous for it’s diverse and delicious cuisine (Food is a religion here, so bring your appetite) and excellent shopping (honest) so not to partake in these activities daily here should be a crime!
Once upon a time, Singapore was a British colony and English remains the primary “business” language, therefore all the locals speak the Queen’s tongue, keeping in mind the residents have created a colourful local lingo known as “Singlish”. Just add –la to the end of every sentence and you will be taken as Singaporean in no time. Do keep in mind however that there are 4 “official” languages and people from all around the world make this their home, so just like in Toronto you are liable to hear over 20 languages spoken in one place, with Mandarin Chinese the dominant second language followed by Malay and Tamil respectively.

Some history and general tourist info on Singapore can be found on their government Tourism website.
www.visitsingapore.com


GETTING THERE

Singapore’s Changi International remains one of the world’s top rated (and Dead Sexy favourite) airports and is very well connected to pretty much everywhere in the world (except Canada go figure! Getting there requires a change of plane in either the US, Europe or Eastern Asia). From Canada flight time is approx 24 hours however which way you fly so you best prepare for the long haul. Business class is best if you can afford it.
Best Airfares: UNITED AIRLINES

United offers daily flights from Toronto, Montreal, Vancouver, and Calgary via their well oiled and well traveled Chicago and San Francisco hubs. All their transpacific flights also make a stop in either Tokyo or Hong Kong (good for stretching the legs). Service is typical no nonsense American. Frills have been cut, so don’t expect anything and you won’t be disappointed!
www.united.com

Best Service: SINGAPORE AIRLINES

The Singapore Girl is a marketing phenom that this innovative and highly regarded airline has been successfully serving up for over 30 years. SIA was the first airline with personal TV’s and the first to introduce other customer service orientated initiatives (champagne in Economy class anyone?) They are usually the most expensive however with almost an entire day travel time, most in-the-know travelers feel its’ well worth it. Singapore Airlines doesn’t service Canada but they do call on New York (JFK and Newark), Houston, Los Angeles and San Francisco daily so connecting to them from major Canadian cities is easy. We suggest San Fran or Newark for minimal fuss. Los Angeles and JFK are major hassles best avoided to keep your sanity.
www.singaporeair.com
Best Route: AIR CANADA

Feeling patriotic? Our reliable, if somewhat aloof and personality free national airline does offer excellent connections via Tokyo and Hong Kong with their Star Alliance partners in Asia. The highlights are non-stop flights on nearly brand new Boeing 777 jets and personal television entertainment.
www.aircanada.ca

Other recommendations:

EMIRATES (via Dubai) www.emirates.com
CATHAY PACIFIC (via Hong Kong) www.cathaypacific.ca


GETTING AROUND

Don’t even think about driving. Singapore boasts one of the world’s most efficient, user friendly and best-integrated Public Transportation systems. The MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) in the local lingo will ensure that wherever you need to go, you can get there with minimal fuss. In the unlikely case the MRT won’t take you there, clean, safe and affordable taxis are easily available.
TIP: If you’re out late be aware that from midnight to 5:59 am, there is a surcharge of 50% of the metered fare which means it’s difficult to flag down a cab 10-15 mins before midnight as most cabbies want the higher fare.
www.smrt.com.sg
www.taxisingapore.com
New Majestic Lobby
WHERE TO SLEEP

Singapore has it all when it comes to its’ hotel scene however the balance here is geared to traditional 5 star old world luxury (a la Four Seasons, Ritz Carlton, Mandarin Oriental, Shangri-La). Gushing over their guests is not done here, however you can depend on hotels to offer efficient, friendly and unobtrusive service. Here are our 3 Dead Sexy Picks for a memorable stay:

The New Majestic
A member of the worldwide DESIGN HOTELS network, the New Majestic Hotel is a haven of modern art and design in the heart of Chinatown. With every room just a little bit different than the last, at this very much “of-the-moment” lodge, prepare to mingle with the local and international arts, media and design junkie crowd.
www.newmajestichotel.com

Quincy
This brand new boutique hotel is our choice if you prefer to stay near Orchard Road and all it’s attractions. The funky façade is of the “you cannot miss it” variety but doesn’t stick out like a sore thumb either. Rooms are well designed and interesting, but not too gimmicky allowing for a seamless mixture or leisure and business (if you really wanted to). We would be remiss to also forget to mention that the Quincy (unlike all other hotels in Sing) includes personalized airport limo pick-ups, daily breakfast, lunch and dinner and laundry service in its rates. Talk about full service!
www.quincy.com.sg
Rickshaw ride in Little India
The Scarlett
Another Chinatown boutique hotel, The Scarlet evokes a more lush and historic edge that harkens to Singapore gone by (or maybe never was?). Rooms and Bedding are supremely comfortable and much more importantly, quite sexy it you are traveling with your partner. We will warn you however that crimson is the main colour palette here and it comes in very liberal doses in the public and private spaces.
www.thescarlethotel.com


WHERE TO EAT

Where have you eaten? Where are you eating? Where will you be eating? FOOD and EATING is the numero uno passion here followed closely by shopping (debatable depending who you speak to). In Singapore it’s not uncommon to be greeted with a “have you eaten?” in place to a how do you do? No guide in the world will ever cover all that there is to eat in this culinary capital, however we suggest that you go local as much as you can (Singaporean/Malay food is poorly represented worldwide). We only think of reverting to Western only when the gut needs an occasional break from the rich and spicy local cuisine.

Wanna know what you are eating? Singapore Cuisine offers up a mix of Chinese, Malay, Indian and Indonesian influences unlike anywhere else.
Lau Pa Sat Hawker Food Sampler, Photogarphy by Rick T.
Chinatown, Photography by Rick T.
Click images for larger view
Click images for larger view
Here is a little primer of some of the fabulous and most favourite local specialties you too can enjoy:

Chili Crab, hard shell crabs cooked in a thick tomato and chili-based gravy.
BBQ Stingray, smothered in sambal and served on banana leaf.
Oyster Omelet, an oyster omelet mixed with flour and fried, garnished with coriander leaves.
Laksa, rice noodles in a coconut curry gravy with shrimp, egg and chicken.
Roti Prata, an Indian pancake, eaten for breakfast or supper, this dish is enjoyed by all Singaporeans and commonly served with curry. Variations may include egg, cheese, chocolate, masala, Durian and even ice cream.
Satay, sliced chicken, goat, mutton, beef, pork, fish, tofu, or other meats speared on bamboo skewers. These are grilled or barbecued over a wood or charcoal fire, then served with various spicy seasonings including local favourite Sambal.

HAWKER CENTERS are the Singaporean version of food courts. They are insanely popular, inexpensive and the best place to start your culinary adventure! Important
TIP: Bring your own napkins! If you don’t have your own, you can buy them from the “aunties” and “uncles” selling them at the MRT stops.

[right] 1.Satay 2.Grilled Prawns 3.BBQ Stingray 4.Sugar Cane Juice 5.Steamed Cockles 6.Ice Kachang 7.Laksa 8.Oyster Omelet
Photography by Elizabeth Yu
Click image for larger view
Telok Ayer Market
This 150 year old landmark is the oldest Hawker Centre in Singapore, known also as “Lau Pa Sat” offering some of the best selection and best fare. Be warned: Stall owners can be pretty aggressive sellers.
www.laupasat.biz

East Coast Lagoon Food Village
A beachfront hawker centre where the salty sea air and beach atmosphere reminds you that you are in the tropics.
Try the BBQ seafood and steamed cockles with fresh lime.
1220 East Coast Parkway

Wonderful Fruits
Although Wonderful Fruits is not a Hawker Center, we can't help but mention the best place to sample a local delicacy. Durian is the local King of Fruits, and it is King at this market stall takeout where lineups start early to buy and relish this creamy and musky fruit. We dare you!
147 Sims Ave, telephone: 6842 9011
Lau Pa Sat, photo courtesy of the Singapore Tourism Board
Casuarina Curry Restaurant
Roti Prata and [top right] Masala Dosa
Photography by Elizabeth Yu